After a few days in Quito and the surrounding area, we were more than ready to get to the Galapagos Islands. We'd heard such wonderful things from friends and family that had been before and couldn't wait to see some unique wildlife.
We were flying Avianca Airlines from Quito to Santa Cruz nonstop but you can also fly out of Guayaquil. We bid on first class seats since we'd never done it before so we were thrilled when we go them! Thank goodness too because I'd come down with a stomach bug and was feeling pretty terrible. I slept a majority of the 2 hour flight over.
We'd done some research and heard that both Avianca and Latam air could be unreliable so we went with Avianca because the flight was direct. Our flight was delayed a couple hours but we were informed the day prior and they also gave us lunch vouchers which was better than most of our experiences with other airlines.
The Galapagos Islands have a $100 per person entrance fee to the islands and it must be paid in cash. When you arrive at the airport in Quito, they will have you fill out a card that you must keep with your both when you enter and exit the islands, like an immigration form. They will then take your luggage and run it through an X-ray to scan and look for any environment materials. Things like dirt in your shoes and snacks like fruit. I had almonds and pistachios on me but they were packaged so they said it was not an issue but to make sure to dispose of it properly when I was finished.
You will then check your bags if you have any and go through security. The airport had some cute shops and restaurants to kill some time before take off.
Prior to landing, we'd arranged someone from our hotel to pick us up as the logistics to get to our hotel sounded complicated. They were a bit but not terrible, you pay about a 20% markup to have someone arranged to get you than you would if you just grabbed a taxi when you got there.
When you land at the airport, you pay your $100 fee and then you will be taken to a large gate where all of the luggage from the flight will be piled. Dogs inspect all of the luggage before they allow you to take yours. Once you grab your things, you exit the airport to a line of buses. You can get a $5 bus ticket at a ticket window, getting in advance will help you get on the bus quicker but maybe by only a few minutes.
The bus will take you to a ferry, you will board the ferry and pay $1 to have them take you from Isla Baltra to the main island of Santa Cruz. Keep an eye out on this quick ferry ride as you may see some Blue Footed Boobies.
The ferry will dock and then there are a bunch of taxi drivers waiting to pick you up right next to some lazy sleeping seals. We had our driver with us the whole time so he helped make sure we knew what was next. I was thankful he was there to help with the bags as I was still feeling sick. Realistically though you'd be just fine showing up at the airport and following the crowds.
Our driver took us to our hotel Semilla Verde Boutique Hotel which was located in the rain forrest part of the island. I knew we were going to love our hotel when we got there as they had a resident cat and dog that immediately greeted us.
We set out things down and the woman running the hotel showed us around and told us about 20 tortoises on the property and some trails we could take to see them. We changed and headed out to explore with Saba, the dog in tow.
We walked around the trails until the sun started to set. I was still not feeling well so headed back to our room for a bit to soak in the bath before getting ready for dinner. I was hopeful that whatever stomach bug or food poisoning I had would be gone soon as I really did not want to feel terrible our entire time on the islands.
We took a taxi that evening into town and it was much warmer than where out hotel was. We really loved our hotel as it was in the rain forrest and beautiful with a screened in porch and hammock. However, the climate on that island is vast from desert to rain forrest and then beach.
We had dinner at La Garrapata Restaurant and walked around the square for a bit. Going down to the pier was amazing as animals were everywhere. They occupy benches and walkways and don't move for anyone. We also picked up our tickets for the 6am ferry the next morning to Isla Isabella.
The next morning we were up entirely too early for vacation to catch a ferry to another island. This was hands down the worst thing we did on our trip. It was so early and I was feeling okay at best, so an early morning boat ride was low on my list of things I wanted to be doing. I took the max dose of dramamine but not much mattered between my already weak stomach and the rough waves that morning. Myself along with half of our boat was so sick for the 2 hour ride over.
I'd looked into taking a puddle jumper but wussed out and also thought the price tag for the quick flight wasn't worth it... it may be for you if you don't do well with motion sickness.
When you buy your tickets, they will give you a lanyard and have you stand in a line to get your bags inspected. Be careful to not have any dirt in your shoes or they will have you brush them off and hold up the line. Once your bags are inspected, you take them to a water taxi to be loaded on. The last people on the water taxi are the first ones to get off and get onto the ferry, so be patient getting on so you can pick better seats.
Once on the ferry boat, they hand everyone a plastic bag for motion sickness and you're off. 2 hours of very intense waves and finally we arrived at the port of Puerto Villamil on Isabella island. Phew.
Isabella Island is not much different from Santa Cruz in the sense that animals lay wherever they want so you're immediately greeted once you arrive.
When you get off the boat, expect to have your luggage inspected one more time by dogs and pay your water taxi and a small entrance fee to the island.
We were staying at the Chez Manany Eco Lodge which was walking distance from the pier so we walked to our hotel. However there were several taxis available if you'd booked a farther hotel stay.
Our room was beautiful and the location was nice for us because it was close to a great snorkeling spot but if we went back, we'd stay closer in town to the restaurants and beach. The island is safe and the walk wasn't terrible but it did make it harder to quickly go back to the room and change.
After a quick nap and change we went into town for lunch and exploring. Most of the restaurants have lunch specials that are incredibly affordable. However, all I wanted was soup or crackers to help settle my stomach.
The owner of our hotel gave us some recommendations so we ate and then went towards to the Tortoise mating center, to see flamingos and to explore the wetlands.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped by a local bakery so B could try some empanadas and we could go to a local grocery store for snacks and food for our hotel since we had a kitchenette.
We got some butter, eggs, cheese, fruit and pop corn for snacks. The Galapagos import a majority of their food and Isabella gets food shipments every 3-4 weeks so the stores are almost bare certain parts of the month. We came a couple of weeks after a fresh shipment so our options were somewhat limited.
The grocery store visit was clutch the next morning when we woke up and had food to cook!
We needed all of our energy for the day as we planned to get mountain bikes to explore the island a but more. The internet on the islands is almost non existent and I hadn't booked anything in advance so we just went into town to find some bikes for about $15 for the day a person.
We biked from the town all the way west to the various inlets hunting for Blue Footed Boobies. The hills were pretty challenging but it was amazing to see all of the views and we even made it through these beautiful mangrove caves. We saw some beautiful grabs and iguanas fighting but no Boobies.
After biking all day we were exhausted but wanting to head back so we could snorkel before sunset. On our way we stopped by this little beach bar that was a perfect refresher. We can't find this bar shack on google maps and I didn't catch the name but it seems to only be open when the owners feel like working. Dream job.
Snorkeling was a big part of our trip, B loves it and I hadn't been feeling well so the cold water was wonderful. Brandon and I snorkeled every day we were there and it was wonderful. The water was pretty cold when you first get in so I brought a wetsuit top which seemed to help a bit.
We saw all kinds of wildlife including sea turtles, rays and beautiful fish.
Our final full day on the island consisted of waking up early to snorkel, go into town for breakfast and wander around the beach. We were hoping to rent some Kayaks and explore but missed the group so we went back to our favorite restaurant, Shawarma Hot, for lunch for the 3rd time and then get back to exploring.
Our last morning was a very early one as we took the 5am boat back to Santa Cruz. I was so nervous about the boat ride since I'd had such a bad experience on the way over. We had calmer waves heading back to the main island and I snagged a seat at the back of the boat so I had a much more enjoyable ride back. We landed back in Santa Cruz around 8am and drug our bags to a cafe for some coffee and food.
I enjoyed our time on Isabella but Santa Cruz has a bit more shops and restaurants and is more walkable so looking back, I wish I had split our time equally instead of more on Isabella. I'd read that Santa Cruz was less touristy than Cristobal but we also felt Isabella was a little too remote for 3 days.
Brandon spent a majority of our day on Santa Cruz checking out various coffee shops and I checked out some boutiques to look at all the trinkets. I found a beautiful bracelet and purse as my only purchases for the trip! I love bringing home things that I can't find online or at home.
We also saw some seals and penguins begging for some scraps at the pier before we had to hail a taxi to the airport.
Our taxi driver took us to the ferry to catch out boat to the airport. At this point I'd only seen one potential Blue footed boobie from afar and was pretty bummed as they are only spotted in the Galapagos Islands seasonally.
Once we made it to the dock, I saw a man with a huge camera snapping some pictures and struck up a conversation with him when he pointed out a bunch of Blue Footed Boobies circling and diving for food. I was so ecstatic that we caught them on our way out of the islands... what are the chances! :)
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